Stage 14: Hontanas – Boadilla del Camino Distance 32.5

Hontanas

Continue through Hontanas past a swimming pool and onto the path that runs along the bottom of a hillside.
 
Walk past fields full of sunflowers before returning to the road.
 
The path more or less runs parallel to the road
 
Carry on past ruins of a mill and the abandoned village of San Miguel to the ruins of the Gothic Convento de San Antón
 
From here it’s a short distance to and San Antón
 

San Antón

Here the camino runs through the archway, Arco de San Antón, that once connected the monastery with the church. The monastery which was built in the 12th century as a pilgrim hospital of the Orden de los Antonianos.
 
The Orden de los Antonianos were famous for their cure for Fuego de San Antón, St. Anthony’s Fire, a fungal disease, similar in many ways to leprosy, that usually resulted in death.
 
Closely connected to San Antón and Castrojeriz is the ‘T’ shaped cross known as the Tau, which is the 19th letter of the Greek alphabet and a symbol of protection. The monks of the Orden de San Antón wore it and gave it to pilgrims as protection against sickness and evil.
 

Passing through San Antón along the country road, Castrojeriz and the hill top ruins of it’s 9th century castillo come into view. After a few kilometres you’ll turn right passing the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Manzano and continue upwards into the centre of Castrojeriz
 

Castrojeriz

Castrojeriz, Castrum Sigerici, was founded by the Visigoths and was the scene of a lot of battles between the Moors and the Christians in the 9th & 10th century.
 
It was a royal residence in the 11th century and was a major stopping point along the camino boasting 8 pilgrim hospitals and 9 churches.
 
At the entrance of the village is the 13th century Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Manzano where Santiago is reported to have seen an image of the Virgin in an apple tree and inside the church you can see a picture of Virgin del Manzano.
 
There is also the 16th century Iglesia de Santo Domingo which is decorated with carved skulls, in particular there are two of death’s heads, O Mors, the past, & O Aeternitas, eternity. Inside you can see some exquisite 17th century tapestries.
 
Near the other side of the village is the 13th century Iglesia de San Juan de los Caballeros. It’s impressive tower is a mix of Gothic and Romanesque styles and inside you’ll find beautifully decorated Mudéjar ceilings.
 
For great views of the town and the surrounding countryside you should try to climb the hill up to the ruins of the 9th century castle. You’ll see a number of bodegas scattered around the hillside.
 
Tourist Information, Calle Cordón 4, Tel: (0034) 947 37 70 01
 

Follow the main street out of Castrojeriz passing the Iglesia de San Juan and cross the road at a fountain onto a trasck on the other side.
 
The track joins an old Roman road which takes you over the Río Odrilla to the foot of Mostelares. You are now faced with the steep climb to Alto de Mostelares.
 
From the top you can see for miles back into Castrojeriz and onwards towards Puente de Itero, Itero de la Vega and Boadilla del Camino.
 
There is also a much welcome rest area at the top.
 
Continue along the path which drops down past the Fuente del Piojo and a picnic / rest area onto a country road.
 
About 1.5km along the road, before crossing the river you can take a detour to the right and head into Itero del Castillo
 

Itero del Castillo

Otherwise keep on the road until you reach the albergue at the 13th century Ermita de San Nicolás
 
The Ermita de San Nicolás is run by an Italian Confraternity and has 12 beds.
 
Open Jun – Sept a shared candle lit dinner (there is no electricity) and breakfast is provided.
 
Cross the impressive 11 arch Romanesque Puente de Itero over the Río Piscuerga into the region of Palencia.
 
Follow the track right along the river past the 13th century Ermita de la Piedad which has a statue of Santiago Peregrino inside and a rest area outside.
 
Continue on into the village of Itero de la Vega
 

Itero de la Vega

Head out of Itero del Castillo and climb the gentle incline to the top which offers great views of the surrounding countryside. Continue downhill and alongside a river and carry on until you reach Boadilla del Camino.
 

Boadilla del Camino

The 16th century Iglesia de Santa María is home to an impressive 14th century stone font and nearby in the town square you’ll find a 15th century medaeival Rollo, stone cross, which is ornately decorated with scallop shells.
 
The Rollo marks the spot where criminals were once tried and if found guilty, executed.